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Menu & More magazine

The Soule Domain

Classically trained chef Charlie Soule travels in search of new and interesting flavor combinations to bring home to his dining room at Soule Domain in Crystal Bay.  From every viewpoint, this authentic peeled log cabin from the earlier part of last century is quaint and charming.  The rustic feel is downplayed, contrasted by tables set with fresh linen, fresh flowers, oil lamps; and log walls adorned with romantic atmosphere--evoked with touches of fresh flowers, crisp linens, oil lamps and watercolor scenes by local artist Cheri’ Guerrette.
 
Server Lauren Speath welcomed us upon our arrival and took my date and I to a booth with a view of the stone fireplace.  We then listened to the many enticing evening’s specials from Steve Soule, the headwaiter and brother of chef Charlie.  We were brought warm house-baked French bread and wheat Parker House rolls with ramekins of hummus

The menu has a number of selections featuring wild salmon, natural, grass fed beef and free-range chicken, but Soule Domain is known for their specials. We started with a seared ahi appetizer.  A fresh, raw filet was rolled in sesame and barely grilled.  The resulting grill flavor was divine and enhanced by a chipotle and lime cream on the attractively arranged plate.  A cucumber salad with onion and bell pepper finished the presentation. 

Our next dish was the lobster wonton special.  The lightly steamed dumplings were bathing in a broth with ginger and fresh shitake mushrooms. The dish possessed subtle flavors and the lobster flavored the broth nicely. Next we tasted my favorite, the Thai curried sea scallops. Perfectly cooked scallops were placed on crispy grilled angel hair pasta and placed in a sauce made with a coconut milk, ginger, jalapeño, cilantro, peanuts, and soy. All of the appetizers went wonderfully with a blush wine, a ’03 Nevada City Winery Alpenglow.

Next came the lamb ravioli.  Plump pillows were cooked al dente and served in a marinara sauce with Kalamata olives, feta cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. The meat was tender and well seasoned and combined well with the ingredients. We then tried the dinner salad and the special spinach salad with proscuitto and a Gorgonzola and sour cream dressing. Their simple dinner salad was a gourmet blend of mixed greens, hearts of palm, goat cheese, olives, artichoke hearts and a light herbed Italian vinaigrette. All dinners come with the soup du jour and we enjoyed carrot with thyme. Created without cream or butter, it was a prime example of Charlie’s ability to serve real food that tastes rich and flavorful. Steve then opened a bottle of the ’02 Willakenzie Estate Pinot Noir from Oregon, a luscious wine with cherries and plums on the fruit end.

Next, Steve brought our entrées and made his usual unique and interesting comment.  The special opakapaka, or Hawaiian red snapper, was coated with panko crumbs, pan-roasted and topped with a savory blend of sun-dried tomato, green olives, feta cheese and roasted red bell pepper. A rice pilaf was served alongside the fish. My date was very pleased with her chicken entrée: Natural, free-range chicken thighs breaded and pan browned in a forestiere style and finished with mushrooms and pan gravy with whole grain mustard.  Creamy mashed potatoes provided an irresistible combination. The vegetable du jour was a seasonal blend of turnips, carrots, sweet potatoes and peppers.

Backwaiter Matt Grandy came and told us about the evening’s seven desserts. We ordered the queen of Sheba cake, a house specialty. As we relaxed over Italian roast coffee, the house desserts were brought to us. The Sheba cake was a nut-filled flourless chocolate cake with a pastry cream filling and a ganache of amaretto and almonds blended with chocolate. It was a very pretty presentation with a pool of vanilla sauce with raspberry swirls. The cake was moist and delicious and the ganache was rich with the flavor of almond. We were bid good night by Steve and Lauren and left to savor the memory of our wonderful meal.

North Lake Tahoe Bonanza

20 years of excellence at Soule Domain

Charlie Soule's journey into the culinary arts started out with a stint battling dishpan hands and continues as he celebrates the 20th year of his Crystal Bay restaurant Soule Domain.

A graduate of North Tahoe High School, Soule went from bottle washer to lunch cook at Tahoe City eatery Tomfoolery.

"I tried college for a year, that didn't work out so I became a lunch cook, then dinner," Soule said. "I liked the lifestyle of being a dinner cook, because I was able to spend my days at the beach or skiing."

Soule then went into construction work but the gig wasn't very steady, so it was back to cooking, this time at the Hyatt.

"I also did a stint at Christy Hill in Squaw Valley but I wasn't really going anywhere," Soule said. "And then my uncle called and asked if I wanted to have my own restaurant."

Soule said he wasn't ready, but figured he could make up for inexperience by focusing on other areas.

"I had just enough knowledge, but I had a lot of drive to succeed," Soule said. "That and the fact we served breakfast, lunch and dinner got us through the first two years."

A self proclaimed chef, Soule said his menu, which started out as country French, is constantly evolving, incorporating Asian, Mediterranean and Mexican influences.

"Everything is a learning experience and I think that's what keeps us unique," Soule said.

Soule is also learning about the ingredients that are becoming part of his creations, accepting new knowledge about what is and what isn't healthy.

"Years ago, we weren't really educated on the processing of ingredients or additives we were buying," Soule said. "Now, if my suppliers can't give me fresh, organically grown products, I search for them. It may cost more, but that's what I want to serve my guests."

The restaurant has been rated as "the best place to take a date" 13 years running by the Action Guide.

Soule, along with his brother Steve, have been offering guests, many of whom are regulars, the culinary fruits of his experience, starting from dishwasher to college dropout, to owning his own well-known, 20-year-old restaurant.

Since a business doesn't turn 20 every day, Soule and his staff have about a week's worth of celebrating planned.

The party kicks off on June 14, the actual anniversary, with hors d'oeuvres and partying.

"It will be pretty unstructured and we'll have a lot of the regulars here. Everyone will get something free," Soule said.

The next day will feature a benefit for the North Tahoe Lakers Booster Club of NTHS.

"I graduated from there and this is to help out the sports program," Soule said.

June 17 will feature a wine maker dinner, with wines from the Sierra Foothills.

The whole celebration will culminate in a family gathering on Father's Day.

"We'll have all the uncles, cousins, nephews and nieces over for a big dinner and it should be a great way to cap it all off," Soule said.

Soule Domain is open for dinner seven days a week and located one-half block up Stateline Drive next to the Tahoe Biltmore.

For reservations call (530) 546-7529